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The town sits at the base or "under the volcano" named Tungurahua. We wanted to see it erupt
so we paid the $3 each for a two-hour trip to a hill overlooking the town. The top of the volcano was visible from there
and sure enough
it coughed up a bit of lava on cue. I had another rum drink and helped to push-start the vehicle that brought us there.

My wife Ana and I spent a week there in Ba๑os
Ecuador
in June of 2004. The hotel
with cable TV
cost $6 per night. The usual rate was $12
but we're good negotiators. Lunch was just $1 each day
or $2.25 total for both
with tip. Typically
it was chicken
rice
beans
salad and juice. Every other day we splurged and paid $1.50 at a nicer place.

Hot Springs Of Ba๑os

The town really is right under the volcano
which has caused problems for the residents over the years. The upside is that it also causes an abundance of hot water. Ba๑os has two hot spring facilities
and two with cold water. They are some of the best mineral springs in Ecuador.

The most popular is at the base of a waterfall that tumbles from the mountain above. It is a short walk from anywhere in town
and it costs just a dollar
or a little more if you want to enjoy the mineral-rich waters under the stars each evening. Thre is a sign that documents the various minerals found in the water
and many come to alleviate their arthritis or other illnesses.

A trip to one of the hot springs became a daily ritual. Afternoons Ana shopped. I played chess in the open market in the center of town
with Manolo or Rene
or other locals. At all times
we enjoyed the scenery. Just look up and you see lush hills and classic colonial architecture all around.

Evenings are for dancing. Santo Pecado ("saint/sinner") was usually our first stop. The owner was always ready to trade stories. Tuparina was our favorite disco
perhaps due to the huayusa
a drink made of a psychadelic plant collected by the family of the owner.

Under The Volcano Tungurahua

Several of the dozens of volcanos in Ecuador are active. Tungurahua
which overlooks Banos
is one of the most active. You need to get out of town to see it
because Ba๑os is set deep in the surrounding lush
green mountains
which block the view. A great way to get a good look is on a "volcano tour."

Several operations in Banos take you on tours to see an eruption. Just flag down one of the "chivas" circling town and blasting loud music in the evening. A chiva is an open-sided bus of sorts
with seating inside or on the roof.

Ana rode inside
and I had to try the roof. My advice? Watch out for branches! We toured the city with party music playing the whole time
then headed into the mountains. There were fire-juggling entertainers on top of the hill
and free hot rum drinks. We looked down on the lights of Banos
and even saw Tungurahua spit up some lava. A two-hour experience
drinks and the honor of helping push-start the chiva. Not bad for $3 each.

Other Activities in Banos

There is a great zoo (bears
birds
tortoises and more). You can rent an ATV
bicycle to nearby waterfalls or tunnels
party in dozens of bars
buy avocados for 20 cents
see a recent movie in your own private viewing room for $1.50 per person (bring all the food and drinks you want) - and almost everything is within a few blocks of any hotel. Banos is beautiful
with a perfect climate year-round.

The real name of the town is Ba๑os de Agua Santa
but it is usually just called Ba๑os. It is in the Andes Mountains
at the foot of the volcano Tungurahua
in Ecuador
South America. Any of the busses from Quito
eighty miles to the north
will cost you less than five dollars. Ready for a vacation under the volcano?